Annapurna I, the mountain of dangers and gods

At 8,091 meters, Annapurna I is the first 8,000-meter peak ever climbed by humans. Located in the heart of Nepal, this summit is sacred: “Annapurna” means “goddess of the harvest” in Sanskrit. But behind this spiritual aura lies one of the most feared peaks in the Himalayas.

Altitude

8091 m

Localisation

28.596° N / 83.820° E

The formidable beauty of Annapurna

Annapurna I is part of a vast massif with several peaks over 7,000 meters. Its south face is one of the most impressive in the world, with 3,000 meters of vertical relief. Known for being unstable and avalanche-prone, it forged the summit’s grim reputation: for decades, Annapurna had one of the highest mortality rates among the 8,000-meter peaks.

1950

First ascent

Achieved on June 3 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal (French expedition), the first-ever conquest of an 8,000-meter peak.

1970

South face climbed

Major success by the British expedition led by Chris Bonington.

1987

First winter ascent

By a Polish team led by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer.

2010

Women’s record

Oh Eun-sun became the first woman to claim the ascent of all 8,000-meter peaks, with Annapurna last.

2021

Speed and audacity

Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja included Annapurna in his lightning project to climb all 14 “8,000ers” in under 7 months.

28.5957° N / 83.8202° E

Nepal

8 091 m

Altitude

1950

First 8,000-meter peak ever climbed

3 000 m

Verticality of the south face

32 %

Former mortality rate (one of the highest among the 8,000-meter peaks)

French tragedy and glory

French tragedy and glory

In 1950, Herzog and Lachenal reached the summit at the cost of severe frostbite. Their account, “Annapurna, First 8000”, became a classic of mountaineering literature.

A deadly reputation

Annapurna remains one of the most dangerous peaks: its south face, the scene of deadly avalanches, is considered one of the riskiest climbs in the Himalayas.

Annapurna I is both a mythical peak and a constant warning.

It symbolizes human fragility in the face of the mountain. For Norton Peak, it represents pioneering spirit and the sometimes cruel price of pushing one’s limits.

From Pokhara

The starting point for approaches to the base camp, Pokhara is also a gateway to the famous Annapurna treks.

“There is no easy Annapurna.”

Reinhold Messner

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